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Vogue

| July 01, 2008 | Sims, David | COPYRIGHT 2008 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Photographed by David Sims.

After a spring season exploding with pyrotechnics, designers are learning to forgo frills in favor of strong, clean lines and a newfound maturity.

CAPTION(S):

MAKING THE MOLD An emphasis on structure is important this season: Here, twill has been cast into a coat with a high sculpted collar offset by a full skirt that swishes like a dress. Louis Vuitton biscuit coat ($4,475), silver-and-glass brooch, and Eyeliner boots; (866) VUITTON.

COMING TOGETHER AT THE SEAMS Creasing paper airplanes inspired Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's preoccupation with precise folds and the inner workings of garment construction, as in an inside-out-look jacket paired with slouchy shimmering pants. Proenza Schouler charcoal double-faced melton coat, black sequined top, metallic sequined wide-legged pants; top and pants at Opening Ceremony, Los Angeles. Details, see In This Issue.

POINT OF RETURN Stilettos are back, and they've never looked sharper than when coupled with an architectural dress. Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere onyx wool-gabardine dress ($3,475), strass-and-pearl necklace and bracelets, and silver-toed heels; dress at Barneys New York.

SNOW WHITE, ROSE RED Alexander McQueen's dance frock is the stuff of fairy tales: romance, splendor, and enchantment. Feather-and-silk-tulle dress and crystal-embroidered flats; Alexander McQueen, NYC. Munnu/The Gem Palace earrings and choker. Details, see In This Issue.

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