Pale Force.(summer make-up)

Byline: Victoria Kirby PHOTOGRAPHED BY NORMAN JEAN ROY

Piling on bronzer is no longer the only--or the best--way to enhance fair skin. This summer, there are less expected ways to glow.

I n the category of summer makeup, the pale-complexioned have been as overlooked as Martin Scorsese on Oscar night. The director finally got his moment--and now, women with fair skin are getting theirs. Being pale doesn't rule out this summer's vibrant makeup shades--nor does it require you to slather bronzer from your hairline to your toes. Plus, embracing your natural skin tone--whatever it is--is becoming increasingly attractive thanks to knowledge about sun safety. "Tan skin used to be associated with health and wealth," says psychologist Nancy Etcoff, author of Survival of the Prettiest: The Science of Beauty (Anchor Books). "Now that there is so much focus on the negative effects of tanning, we see it as skin cancer, sun spots, wrinkles. It's like with cigarettes--in film noir, they were glamorous; now they're anything but." Makeup artists have another perspective: "Bright shades can look tacky on bronzed skin," says makeup artist Polly Osmond. "But a vivid coral blush or a hot pink gloss against a milky complexion is beautiful." Equally flattering are softer peachy-gold hues. So what is off-limits? White shadow, baby pink, and anything too dark--all of which can wash out light skin. Everything else is fair game.

Bright Ideas

Coral and turquoise may sound like makeup colors only a Boca Raton retiree would wear, but they're surprisingly flattering on fair skin. "The trick is to choose sheer textures," says makeup artist Pati Dubroff. "Nothing should be dense." Nor should it be worn all over: Keep bold color to just one feature. Here's how to pull it off:

VIBRANT EYES Blue-based shades such as aqua, teal, and lavender perk up pale skin. Blend the color on the lids only; anything above the crease looks showgirlish. Skip eyeliner--it looks hard against these hues--and don't load on too much mascara.

FLUSHED CHEEKS "Pale skin really needs color on the cheeks," says makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. "The only time to skip it is when you're wearing a bright lip color." She loves poppy, hot pink, or coral for the cheeks. Choose a cream formula--"you want these bold colors to sink into the skin"--and apply it to the apples of your cheeks with your fingers.