"Resort Report".(Oscar de la Renta's resort show)

Byline: --ANDR�% LEON TALLEY

The day before his resort show,

Oscar de la Renta told me, "The first time I saw Gloria Guinness, she was wearing a white helmet and a black suit from Balenciaga. I followed her for three blocks down the street." Now the designer has used both helmet and suit as a springboard for his new cocoon-shaped jackets in all the great colors of the cruise season: cobalt blue, grass green, ocher, and sophisticated brown, with a dash of coral here and there. Set against Stefan Beckman' s extraordinary backdrops of cherry- and apple-blossom trees painted white in contrast to the green trellised walls, the show featured what the de la Renta customer wants: a pair of trousers in white silk for day, a printed silk-organza caftan with knotted fabric ropes around the neck for night. The winners were Jourdan Dunn in a Pop Art green ball dress of tulle embroidered with long tropical petals and Georgina Stojiljkovic, in a great black frigate of tulle, anchored on a jet embroidered bodice, with a huge skirt a la Franz Xaver Winterhalter. Annette de la Renta came in a wool coat in white, like the great linen strapless dress worn by one of my favorite models, the Brazilian Marilia, with a boxy metallic straw minaudiere in her hand and polished gold discs at her ears.

South of the Border

"Think the icons-- Millicent Rogers, C. Z. Guest --who influenced fashion with confidence and originality," said John Galliano, "the good life in Acapulco, and the great photographs of Slim Aarons. " Volume was key, from Stephen Jones' s sombreros, tied and slung over the shoulders ("I wanted ...