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Bruce Pike, a middle-aged paramedic, is adept at distinguishing a suicide from an error in judgment; his own turbulent adolescence accounts for this grim bit of wisdom. Growing up in a conservative Australian mill town not far from the coast, he and a daredevil buddy are swiftly drawn by the call of the big wave: "I couldn't take my eyes from those plumes of spray, the churning shards of light." The youngest surfers on the beach, they ...