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A grimy Victorian building with a slate roof loomed above me like a derelict tomb as I climbed the entrance stairs of the Hackney public baths, passing by whirring gym equipment, men puffing and slumped over exercise bikes. Walking to the change area I opened one of the cubicles, putting on my costume before following the hallway to the pool. A lifeguard sat on a chair, while lanes had been roped off for swimmers, an instructor bellowing directions to school kids who dipped and dived, splashing beneath the ropes. Lying back in the water, I began backstroking down the lane, relaxing into the warmth of the water and the rhythm of my body, swimming back and forth along ...