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More than forty fabulous pieces of jewelry created between 1903 and 1920 by Josef Hoffmann, Koloman Moser, Dagobert Peche, and other members of the Wiener Werkstatte are the focus of an exhibition now open at the Neue Galerie in New York City. Hoffmann and Moser, the workshop's artistic co-founders, were inspired by the writings of William Morris and subscribed to the arts and crafts ideal of exceptionally well-made objects designed by artists and made by specialized craftsmen. They believed that jewelry, examples of which were among the first objects they created, should be valued for its artistic merit and not solely for its monetary value. Nevertheless, their works were extravagant and intended for a select market. As Hoffmann once said, "Since it is not possible to work for the whole market, we will concentrate on those who can afford it."
The first pieces of jewelry created in the workshops, such as the one pictured above, relied heavily on the grid and other simple geometric forms. By the outbreak of World War I, a generation of new designers began to have an impact, creating more idiosyncratic, free-spirited designs ...