Choicest chocolates.(Trends)(Table)

Retailers predict robust chocolate sales for this Valentine's Day, and if you wonder why, take a look at the calendar. When February 14 falls on a Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday (as in 2008), sales of chocolate increase, says Susan Fussell, a spokeswoman for the National Confectioners Association.When it lands on another day, lovebirds are more apt to dine out, see a show, or take a vacation.

Our tests show that if you're looking for the best treat for a sweet-loving sweetie, you might need to spend almost as much as for those other options.The top chocolates cost $42 to $97 per box of 12 to 26 ounces, and that's before adding $8 to $35 for shipping. (Next-day delivery might be required because many of the candies have a short shelf life.) More than half of the chocolates that have made our list for the past two years have risen in price, anywhere from $1 to $16 a box. (Energy and dairy costs are among the culprits.) Many of the products are sold in boutiques; all are available online or by phone.

The good news is that the best superpremium chocolates (industryspeak for those costing $24 or more per pound) are really, really good--extremely fresh, with smooth, even-melting chocolate; flavors of cream, butter, and vanilla; and fruit fillings and herbal infusions that taste like the real deal, not extracts or concentrates.They're nothing like Whitman's, Hershey's, or Russell Stover chocolates, which typically sell for less than $10 a box. Those tended to have cloying sweetness; artificial flavors; a dry, chalky, or gritty texture; low chocolate flavor; or stale nuts.

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Among newly tested products that made our cut: Nonnie's, which is excellent, and Charles Chocolates and Theo, which are among the very good choices we've listed below the Ratings.Three of the very good options are CR Best Buys.

CR's take. There's a box to delight most any chocoholic. Find out how your beloved feels about dark, milk, or white chocolate; nuts; and fillings such as passion fruit or chili pepper. Then use the descriptions below to choose.

 
Ratings 
 
All were excellent. 
Within types, in order of overall quality. 
 
Product, number     Weight, oz.  Price  Cost,  Description 
of pieces                               oz. 
 
FOR TRADITIONALISTS Truffle-style (chocolate inside and out). Some 
have caramel, nuts, or liqueurs. 
 
* Candinas, 36          16        $43   $2.69  Dark and milk chocolate; 
                                               hazelnut, caramel, 
                                               liqueur-flavored 
                                               centers. 
 
  John & Kira's         21         75    3.55  Dark squares; mint, 
  Every                                        raspberry, pistachio, 
  Flavor, 56                                   anise, other fillings. 
 
  La Maison du          21         97    4.60  Mostly dark; chocolate 
  Chocolat Coffret                             centers fl avored with 
  Maison dark and                              hazelnut, fruit, 
  milk, 72                                     cinnamon, liqueurs, 
                                               others. 
 
  Martine's             16         65    4.06  Dark, milk, some white; 
  Assortment du                                caramel, hazelnut, 
  Jour                                         raspberry-flavored 
  Signature, 36                                fillings, others. 
 
  Fran's Assorted       12         42    3.50  Milk, dark, some white; 
  Truffles              ...