Pale Fire.

Byline: Meirav Devash PHOTOGRAPHED BY TESH

Pastel makeup has never been so powerful: Lilac is worn as winged liner, pink lips are practically opaque, and blue shadow is strong and brushed up to the brows. Shrinking violets need not apply.

Miami Vice, bridesmaids, and Jordan Almonds are no longer the sole ambassadors for pastel colors. This spring's pale makeup is unusually wild, echoing the cheerfulness of the clothes that dominated the runways--charming florals, minidresses, artsy prints--but with a hefty dose of swagger. "There are no safe, sheer washes of color this season," says makeup artist Frank B. "These pastels aren't angelic. They're fun, they're edgy, and they're even a little bit dangerous." Shades usually considered sweet now have a hint of sourness, and they're applied both deliberately and liberally. "The look may not be traditionally pretty, but it's more surprising than dark eyes or red lips," says makeup artist Dick Page.

Though subtlety is not the aim here, you needn't resemble an anime character by the time you step away from the mirror. The trick is to choose shades that "provide rich color while allowing the skin underneath to show through," says makeup artist Chrisanne Davis. This way, the effect will be cool and rebellious, not gaudy. Take that, Don Johnson.

The Paint Box

Into the Blue

To reflect the true color of the aquamarine eye shadow, Frank B primed the lids with concealer before brushing on the shadow, blending it midway between the crease and the brow bone and under the lower lashes. He applied hot pink blush to the apples of the cheeks and dabbed shimmery pink-tinged gold on the lips. "A warm lip gloss keeps you from looking washed out," he says.