The Glitterati.

Byline: Cara Litke PHOTOGRAPHED BY GREG KADEL

Sparkle was once suitable only for a dance recital or a burlesque show. But subtlety isn't everything--and glitter becomes both sexy and subversive when it's intentionally brazen.

Glimmer, glitter, shimmer, sparkle--it's a semantic minefield. One of these is tasteful, another festive, and the remaining are theatrical, slutty, trashy, and entirely unacceptable. And just when you thought you knew which was which, makeup artists and beauty magazines (hello!) changed all the rules.

Here's the current thinking: Glitter is good. Yes, actual chunks of visible sparkle--the kind we've warned you against in the past--is the latest eye-makeup craze. It isn't subtle, it isn't discreet, and it isn't what you'd wear to meet the co-op board, the loan officer, or the boyfriend's parents. And that's OK. "This glitter doesn't feel as gaudy as it did in the '80s, because we're applying it so deliberately," says makeup artist Gucci Westman, "which makes it a little rebellious." Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury adds, "Glitter now should look lived-in, with a rock-and-roll edge."

That said, glitter is messy, "and it requires a bit more time, patience, and planning than other mediums," Westman warns. For the most dramatic effect, loose, colorful glitter (from a makeup company, not a craft store) can be brushed on. To protect the eyes from irritation or abrasion, first dab lids with a dot of petroleum jelly (it's safe to use there) to help the glitter adhere. If you want a more toned-down look, just mix a bit of fine glitter (the type with smaller particles) into a cream eye shadow. No matter which look you choose, resist the urge to sparkle until after the sun goes down. "Glitter can look harsh and out of place in daylight, but a smattering of it on your lids is about as sexy as it gets for evening," Westman says. We reserve the right to change our minds, but our recommendation now is clear: Shine on.

The Looks

This season, all that glitters is gold...and purple, and bronze, and blue. Makeup artist Gucci Westman outlines the steps to re-creating our three favorite effects.