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fish tale; A Scandinavian delicacy that you bury in the ground for days.

Vogue

| December 01, 2007 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

It was a perfect storm, but in a good way. The ground was not yet frozen, so I could still dig a hole in our backyard. Large sheets of birch bark had arrived from the birch-bark site on the Internet. I had been reading up on the differences between wild salmon and farmed. A friend from Norway was on his way to Manhattan with information, ingredients, and native treats. And so I was totally ready to make gravlax the old-fashioned way. Good thing, too. The holidays were looming, and I felt it would be hospitable to prepare lots of gravlax.

Lax, or lachs, means "salmon" in Scandinavia and elsewhere (see lox). Grav means "buried" ...

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