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No, you have not stepped into a defunct deli. The ice-cream-parlor freezer containing plastic ice cubes is part of the decor of the Martin Margiela men's boutique. So are the plastic fishing-boat chairs, the opened umbrellas, and the full-length mirrors in cardboard armoires that rest on dollies. And the people in lab coats are not coming to take you away. They are the sales staff. The reason that just about everything is swabbed in white paint--except for the merchandise--is that Martin Margiela is extremely hip. No photographs have been taken of this Belgian designer since 1988. His clothes cry out, "I dare you to wear me." People who take them up on the challenge say that the stuff is very wearable. Have you seen these people? You would remember. In the collection this season is a man's sleeveless jumpsuit tuxedo and a pair of women's jeans so vigorously distressed that only a few threads remain ($895 and $495, respectively). The accessories aren't exactly buttoned-down, either--see the woven-canvas satchel with leather trim that looks as if it were meant to carry a guitar ($475), or the money-colored wallet made of eleven-dollar bills ($375). The adjoining women's boutique opened in February, but the finishing touches have ...