Sparkling wines: drink a toast to good value.(Trends)

Here's something to celebrate: You needn't spend $40 for a very good sparkling wine. Two of the pricier, big-name Champagnes, Perrier Jouet and Veuve Clicquot, were bested by sparkling wines costing as little as $10.

Our Ratings are based on blind tastings conducted by two outside experts who sampled authentic Champagnes and sparkling white wines in the same style. Strictly speaking, Champagne must be made in the Champagne region of France, using that area's grapes, according to regulations that also call for two fermentations.

Sham-pagne and the officially sanctioned stuff are often made using the same methods, and sometimes they're made by the same companies. LVMH, for instance, owns Napa's Domaine Chandon and France's Moet & Chandon.

What we found. "France" on the label doesn't always mean great bubbly in the glass. Our top two sparkling wines--Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut, $16, and Mumm Napa Brut Prestige, $20--are produced in California. Several of the lower-rated products, including one of the most expensive, varied in quality from bottle to bottle.

Many Champagnes and sparkling wines lack a vintage, which means that there's no year listed on their labels. As a result, it's difficult to know how long they've been sitting on a shelf, which is probably why some bottles of some brands we tasted had stale, oxidized flavors. Whatever your choice, buy sparkling wine from a high-volume store with quick turnover to better your chances of getting a fresh bottle.

CR's take. Consider the Gloria Ferrer, Mumm, Scharffenberger, and Segura Viudas sparkling wines, all CR Best Buys. If the label must say "Champagne,"

 
Wine                                  Price  Comments 
 
VERY GOOD Well balanced and dry; classic fruity and yeasty 
aromas. Short of excellent because of inconsistent quality, 
slight off-notes, or lack of intensity. 
 
* Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut (CA)     $16     Classic toasty, yeasty 
                                             aromas, red-berry notes. 
 
* Mumm Napa Brut Prestige (CA)        20     Classic toasty, yeasty 
                                             aromas, fruity. 
 
  Piper-Heidsieck Champagne, Brut     35     Crisp, toasty, less fruit 
  (France)                                   than most. 
 
* Scharffenberger, Brut Mendocino     18     Fruity, toasty, a bit less 
  (CA)                                       intense than most. 
 
  Taittinger La Francaise             42     Mature wine; toasty, 
  Champagne, Brut (France)                   yeasty aromas. 
 
* Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava     10     Appealing, but light 
  (Spain)                                    flavors, very crisp. 
 
  G. H. Mumm Cordon Rouge             34     Variable quality; at best, 
  Champagne, Brut (France)                   very well balanced. 
 
  Piper-Sonoma Select Cuvee, Brut     16     Variable quality; at best, 
  (CA)                                       fine combo of fruit ...