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COPYRIGHT 2008 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc.
Set amid the restaurant equivalents of garishly bloated Broadway musicals, Omido appears more akin to an Off Broadway production of Beckett. (Or, given its proximity to the Ed Sullivan Theatre, more David Letterman than Jay Leno.) Its incongruity is due largely to its AvroKo design: among the tourist claptrap and lit-up marquees, it's cool, spare,...
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