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Backstage Beauty.

Allure

| December 01, 2007 | Kirby, Victoria | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Backstage Beauty

At the spring fashion shows, lips weren't rosy, skin wasn't dewy,

hair wasn't sweet and tidy. And we couldn't be happier. By Victoria Kirby

Newton's third law states that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction -- and at the spring 2008 fashion shows, hairstylists and makeup artists did their part to uphold the balance of the universe. In response to the conventionally pretty, polished glamour of recent seasons, the pros presented a more daring beauty for spring, one that embraced textured hair, strong lip and eye colors, and matte skin. "The perfect blowout and glossy makeup -- suddenly it all seems dull and uptight," said hairstylist Guido. Even designer Valentino -- the champion of good taste and Hollywood chic -- bucked tradition and for the first time in years swapped his show's red lips for a feisty neon pink mouth. This unbuttoned approach, however, was by no means crude. Bold eye shadow was paired with soft blush, while air-dried hair had a sharp part. Even when the looks were more natural and pared-down, there was always a lively touch -- a dab of shimmer on the inner eyes or a raw slice of ribbon tied around a ponytail. "There's something fresh about being a little rebellious," said makeup artist Pat McGrath. "Women today don't want to be predictable."

#1 Colorful Shadows

Makeup artists dreamed in color this season, dabbing eyes with nearly every shade of the rainbow. Some stuck to just a sheer wash of pink and orange on the lids, while others rimmed all around the eyes in energetic hues of green, purple, and blue.

Trick Of the Trade: Cream formulas are training wheels for those who are wary of colored shadow, makeup artist Dick Page says. "They don't leave harsh lines, and the sheer textures make

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