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In muscular prose, the author details how he lucked into a ruined estate in Montalcino, hired masons, transplanted mature trees, analyzed soil, operated heavy machinery (sometimes to disastrous effect), chose clones, planted rootstock, tended fifteen acres of vines, found porcini, measured sugar content with a refractometer, ordered custom-made stainless-steel French vats, sent his wife to sommelier school, ...