Zenkichi.(Product/service evaluation)

Publication: The New Yorker

Publication Date: 15-OCT-07

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COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc.

This multilevel den, hidden at the far end of an uber-hip Williamsburg stretch, is mostly recognizable by the small, come-hither red light shining above its doorway. Inside, diners are ensconced in dimly lit private cells, curtained off by bamboo blinds and connected by shadowy stone-slab-and-pebble walkways. Servers are discreet; they appear...

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