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BLT Market.(Restaurant review)

The New Yorker

| November 26, 2007 | Peed, Mike | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

The term "branding" has become the haute restaurateur's euphemism for "franchising." The latter is Applebee's and Bennigan's; the former Nobu, Craft, and BLT. Both sets have multiple locations, in multiple cities, but those who brand also have celebrity chefs, cookbooks for sale by the hostess stand, and $92 rib-eyes. Case in point: the "bistros" of Laurent Tourondel (hence BLT) will soon number fifteen, among them BLT Prime, BLT Fish, and BLT Burger; with outlets already established in Washington and Puerto Rico, next month Tourondel will plant a BLT Steak in White Plains. The way this trend is curving, look for BLT Frozen in your neighborhood grocery by New Year's.

How Tourondel, a Frenchman who began his career as chef to an admiral in the Marine Nationale, became an arbiter of American steak and fish houses remains something of a mystery. His newest venture, BLT Market, aims to institutionalize the ever more popular locally produced/organically grown/seasonally available food fetish. The restaurant, in the Ritz-Carlton (another fine franchise), off Central Park, is adorned with antique farm tools and, at this time of year, buckets of McIntosh and ...

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