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After sixteen seasons, Zac Posen has found his way through fifties couture conceits-Mainbocher's simplicity for day, Charles James's dramatic volume for night-for a 46-look magnum opus of a collection based on "American optimism." In the spirit of the pioneer costumes in Martha Graham's Appalachian Spring, he made an extraordinary statement of simplicity in a sateen cotton shirt tucked into a beige linen long skirt with pinwheel pleats, belted in matte saddle leather. In ...