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china fun; On a quest for haute Chinese cuisine, Jeffrey Steingarten seeks out surprising ingredients, sharp flavors-and no more thick, sludgy sauce.(Chinese restaurants)

Vogue

| September 01, 2007 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

Chinese cuisine is on the march, everywhere you look, everywhere you go. Did you see that article the other day in the Hindustan Times of Delhi, the one about high-class Chinese restaurants in India?

It seems that a frantic competition has broken out there among the major luxury-hotel chains to elevate the quality and prestige of their Chinese restaurants. Wouldn't you totally love it if that happened here? The Hyatt Regency in Delhi is about to open a 150-seat "upmarket Chinese restaurant with a team of chefs flown in from China at a reported investment of U.S. $2.5 million." And the Maurya in Delhi "will finally unveil its ...

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