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on a roll; A perfect burger, Jeffrey Steingarten discovers, largely depends on one thing-how you mix your meat.

Vogue

| October 01, 2007 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

National Hamburger Month came early this year, or so it seemed. Maybe it always occupies the month of May. I've dreaded National Hamburger Month for most of my adult life. When it ends, on the last day of May, my birthday, my anxiety grows-not because I have suddenly grown a year older but because that's when the actual outdoor-hamburger-cooking season begins. I love a good hamburger, but I rarely succeed at the hamburger grill. Again this year I made them the way I always do, and mirabile dictu, they turned out the way they always do-which is not what I was hoping for. What kind of cook can't cook a hamburger, I asked myself, ...

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