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tailored maids; A new exhibition at the V & A Museum reveals the triumph of mid-century couture in London and Paris.(The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957," at London's Victoria and Albert Museum)
Byline: Hamish Bowles
The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957," at London's Victoria and Albert Museum (September 22, 2007-January 6, 2008), uncovers the unexpected dialogues between the two fashion capitals during a period that saw the art of haute couture reach new levels of technical mastery and aesthetic panache.
"Style-wise, Paris was an absolute dominant leader and had great brilliance and chic flamboyance," says curator Claire Wilcox, "but the London designers had social confidence. It was wonderful to see how fashionable and how restrained their work was."
Paris, the preeminent fashion center since the late seventeenth century, benefited from "the undoubted skill of the dressmakers with their doigts de fee [fairy fingers], as Dior said. London, in turn, had a great tradition of strong tailoring," adds Wilcox. England's couture designs were predicated on "the armature of the social season. Racing at Goodwood and debutante balls, for example, were very important." Around the 1930s, Digby Morton began creating a tailored tweedy ...
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