Dark chocolate Which bars are best?(dark chocolate bars)(Product/service evaluation)

You might not hear "Take two candy bars and call me in the morning," but chocolate, especially the dark kind, can do more than make you smile. Dark chocolate is especially high in polyphenols, antioxidants that have been linked to cardiovascular benefits, and a July 2007 study suggests that small amounts eaten daily may help lower some people's blood pressure.

The Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, an evidence-based compendium that evaluates natural products, even provides dosage information: "For isolated systolic hypertension and essential hypertension, 100 grams/day of dark chocolate rich in cocoa polyphenols has been used." (Overdo the dosage at your peril: A chocolate bar about that weight can set you back approximately 500 calories and 30 grams of fat.)

Our trained panelists tasted 14 dark chocolate bars. The champion was Cacao Reserve Extra Dark with Cacao Nibs, by old standby Hershey. It has a big chocolate flavor with a smooth melt, and the nibs add an interesting crunch. It costs just 68 cents an ounce ($2.39 per bar) and bested some bars that cost nearly twice as much. Two other very good bars were also relatively inexpensive: Lindt, which has a complex flavor, is moderately bitter and has a distinct snap when bitten, and Hershey's Extra Dark, a tasty bar with no obvious flaws.

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The tested bars weigh about 2 to 3.5 ounces and cost about $2 to $5. Cost is based on the average we paid.

But get 'em while they're good. A chocolate industry trade group has petitioned the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to allow manufacturers to replace cocoa butter with cheaper fats and still ...