Marlow & Sons.(Restaurant review)

Publication: The New Yorker

Publication Date: 17-SEP-07

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COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc.

You can be annoyed by Marlow & Sons, if you're in a stickler's mood. The place--a commissary/newsstand/tavern/oyster bar, and, most recently, restaurant--is pure ironic-nostalgic pastiche. Sausages dangle from the ceiling as if to evoke turn-of-the-century Little Italy; the waiters wear butcher-style aprons, and sometimes mustaches, for a dose of Five Points. In the cabinet-of-curiosities...

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