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PENN'S MAJESTY.(photographer Irving Penn)(Editorial)

Vogue

| July 01, 2007 | Wintour, Anna | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Anna Wintour

This issue is a surprise birthday party for Irving Penn, who turns 90 this month. I mean this quite literally: Mr. Penn loathes personal publicity, and any knowledge that we were planning a birthday homage would have sent him running for the hills-armed, of course, with his Rolleiflex camera and his bedside lamp (see Kennedy Fraser's "The Mighty Penn," page 136). So over a period of months we asked him-without telling him why-to shoot a variety of subjects and to let us have a few recent, unpublished works. Seeing them together, I am struck afresh by the extraordinary level of versatility and inventiveness he brings to the page. His work is as exquisite and electrifying today as it was in 1943, when he started contributing to Vogue.

When I asked him, over lunch last February, to shoot a portrait of Cate Blanchett (see "Majesty," page 150), he immediately drew a sketch over a movie still I had brought along. This I promptly sent, via Executive Fashion Editor Phyllis Posnick (Penn's longtime collaborator at Vogue), to Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga. Penn always conceives of a picture beforehand in this way; Vogue facilitates his vision rather than vice versa, and the results are replicated in Vogue's pages as full-scale fashion portfolios and magisterial still lifes.

There is no one else who works with this level of imaginative ...

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