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fine and brandy; Jeffrey Steingarten tests the ideal method for distilling artisanal apple spirits.

Vogue

| July 01, 2007 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

Apples, apples everywhere. Apples have taken over the kitchen and the borderlands around it. This is not unusual in my business, except that I can't figure out what to do next. I am frozen to the spot or, more accurately, to the couch.

There are 100 shiny red Empire apples and dull yellow Mutsus sitting in crates. In the fridge there are 30 quarts of the best apple juice the Union Square Greenmarket has to offer. On the dining table are seven gleaming stainless-steel stockpots, some filled with mashed-up apples, core and skin and all, others with pure apple juice. Scattered among these are laboratory instruments for measuring ...

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