Forbidden Fare.(Istanbul street foods)

It was a cold afternoon in Istanbul, in January, 1964. I was standing just outside a buffet restaurant that occupied the ground floor of a Greek apartment building in a corner of Taksim Square (which was much smaller and more run-down then, because the old buildings hadn't yet been demolished to open up lanes for the avenues). I was awash in fear but also euphoric: in my hand was a frankfurter sandwich I'd just bought from the buffet. I took a big bite, but as I stood there, chewing away amid the great chaos of the city, watching the circling trolleybuses and the swarms of shoppers and young people rushing off to the movies, my joy left me: I had been caught. My brother ...