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Cut Loose.(exhibition of Paul Poiret's designs)

The New Yorker

| May 21, 2007 | Thurman, Judith | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Two years ago, at an auction in Paris that set new records for couture, the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum acquired twenty-six ensembles by Paul Poiret that his granddaughter had put up for sale. They had belonged to the couturier's wife and muse, Denise, and hadn't been seen in public since she wore them at the turn of the twentieth century. Even though the couple divorced, with bitterness on both sides, in 1928, Mme. Poiret reverently preserved her legacy, and kept a diary of the occasions--a ball, a fete, a premiere--for which each garment was created. Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, the curators of the institute, were stunned, Bolton told me, "by the ...

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