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Two years ago, at an auction in Paris that set new records for couture, the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum acquired twenty-six ensembles by Paul Poiret that his granddaughter had put up for sale. They had belonged to the couturier's wife and muse, Denise, and hadn't been seen in public since she wore them at the turn of the twentieth century. Even though the couple divorced, with bitterness on both sides, in 1928, Mme. Poiret reverently preserved her legacy, and kept a diary of the occasions--a ball, a fete, a premiere--for which each garment was created. Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, the curators of the institute, were stunned, Bolton told me, "by the ...