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COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc.
One day in 1977, while his wife, Vera, was out doing errands, Latif Jiji, a professor of mechanical engineering at City College, stuck a small grapevine in the ground in the back yard of his town house, on East Ninety-second Street, between Park and Lex. The garden was ostensibly his wife's domain, which is why Latif did his planting on the sly, but it didn't take long before the vine, having absorbed all those rich Upper East Side nutrients (smog-flavored rain, decomposed poodle droppings, roach-killer runoff), grew conspicuously large.
"The way I look at it is Freudian," Vera, a retired...
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