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COPYRIGHT 2000 Hunter Publishing, Inc.
Catamarca Province is situated in the north-west of Argentina. The word "Catamarca" is derived from a Quechua word meaning "Fortress on the Slopes", and could well refer to any of the many pre-Colombian fortress-towns located in the Sierra de Aconquija.
The province is shaped like a tilted triangle. The border with Chile forms the western side; along the north-eastern side are Salta, Tucuman, and Santiago del Estero; while La Rioja lies along the south-western border. The capital of Catamarca is San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca. Within Catamarca Province its name is generally abbreviated to "San Fernando", but outside Catamarca its name is often abbreviated to "Catamarca", particularly on public transport. Throughout the Travel Companion I refer to the provincial capital as Catamarca.
Catamarca is a province of contrasts: to the west along the border with Chile are some of the highest peaks in the Andean cordillera; to the east are fertile and productive valleys. The northern region is almost completely barren and covered with salt lakes such as Salar de Antofalla, Salina de la Laguna Verde, and, closer to the capital San Fernando, Salar de Pipanaco.
Catamarca has a dry climate and because of its low annual rainfall depends heavily on irrigation for its agriculture. Sheep and goats are the predominant farm animals.
The province's mineral wealth is considerable, but the deposits of copper, manganese, gold, and silver are not mined because of the lack of road connections and electricity. The Diaguitas were already using copper and gold to manufacture ornaments and utensils in pre-Incan times; around 1470 they came under Inca domination, and today they are almost extinct.
In the smaller villages hand weaving is still practiced.
The road network and bus services are adequate, particularly in the eastern part of the province. Towards the Chilean border most roads are unsealed, and rivers are generally crossed by ford. During the spring thaw, roads in these distant regions are sometimes cut. Bus services into neighbouring provinces are good. Only Catamarca city has connecting flights to and from other provinces.
Besides the capital, there are no large urban centres in Catamarca. Most towns are connected by roads, but there still are quite a number of outlying villages which can only be reached on horseback.
Catamarca Province is still largely unexplored, and in the more remote areas you may well be the first European visitor.
When eating out, be aware that in Catamarca soup is served after the main course.
Tourist destinations
Worth a visit
(a) Catamarca
Worth a detour
(a) Andalgala
(a) Belen
Very interesting
(a) Santa Maria
(a) Tinogasta
(a) Antofagasta de la Sierra and the altiplano
Pre-Hispanic culture
Catamarca is considered the cradle of most pre-Hispanic cultures in Argentina. Traces of two cultures which flourished in the paleolithic era--the Ampajango and Ayampin cultures--have been discovered in this region. These people were nomadic hunter-gatherers. The period known as the Early Pottery Era began in 500 BC and lasted until 550 AD, during which time llamas were domesticated and the first urban centers established. The best examples of these settlements are at Condor Huasi and Falda Cienaga in the department of Belen and Alamito in the department of Andalgala. By the time the Cienaga culture arose about 200 AD its people were already expert metal workers. From around 600 AD until 900 AD the Aguada culture flourished. The Santa Maria culture began around 950 AD in the Rio Yokavil valley, and soon spread over the whole Calchaqui area, encompassing large areas of Tucuman Province and the southern part of Salta Province. These were very warlike people who in effect led the 1643 uprising against the Spanish. They were defeated and the vanquished population was forcibly re-settled in small groups in Cordoba and Buenos Aires Provinces. In pre-European times the Incas had used a similar strategy against unruly or recently conquered tribes, and the Spanish adopted it from them. In recent years some of the pre-Incan cities which were abandoned in this way have been restored, such as Quilmes in Tucuman Province. Other archaeological sites from the Santa Maria culture are Loma Rica, La Paya, and Punta de Balasto. As well as being fine potters these people were also expert metallurgists and metal workers, as were the people of the Belen culture which flourished at about the same time.
The Nevados del Aconquija ranges contain several pre-Colombian towns, some of which have barely been explored. The best known is Las Chacritas near Buena Vista; there are others in the Rio Calchaqui valley.
Thermal springs
There are hundreds of thermal springs in Catamarca Province, most of them with therapeutic properties, but very few with tourist facilities due to being in remote areas. A list of the most important follows.
Departamento de Ambato
* Agua de la Puerta
Departamento de Andalgala
* Nacimiento del Rio Alumbrera (or "Source of the Alumbrera River")
* Vis-Vis: 1500 m, 38[degrees]C (104[degrees]F)
Departamento de Belen
* Villa Vil: Located in the Quebrada de Villa Vil at 2722 m 60C (165[degrees]F)
* Cura Fierro: Located in the Quebrada Villa Vil on the western side of the Sierra de Hualfin at 2300 m. Water temperature is 23C (76[degrees]F) . It is supposed to have therapeutic properties against liver and kidney ailments and diabetes
* Aguas de Dionisio: 2000 m 24[degrees]C (78[degrees]F)
* La Colpa: 1950 m, 28[degrees]C
* Nacimientos de Hualfin:At 2300 m, water temperature 37[degrees]C (103[degrees]F)
* Llampa
* Ojo Dulce de Choya
* Salada de Choya 2300 m 37[degrees]C (103[degrees]F)
Departamento de Capayan
* Agua de Coneta
* Agua Blanca
Departamento de Capital
* El Carrizal
* El Jumeal
Departamento de Fray Mamertu Esquiu
* Aguaditas de San Jose
Departamento de Paclin
* El Rosario
Departamento de Santa Rosa
* Termas Lavalle
Departamento de Tinogasta
* Bano de Higueritas: Located in the Quebrada de Higueritas 15 km from Tinogasta. The water is 23[degrees]C (74[degrees]F)
* The impressive Termas de Fiambala 1570 m, 58[degrees]C (160[degrees]F) 16 km from town. The water is supposed to have therapeutic properties against respiratory ailments and arthritis
* Termas de Saujil: 15[degrees]C (60[degrees]F) , 15 km north of Fiambala
Ancasti
Postal code: 4701
[telephone] area code: operator connected, dial 19
Distance from Catamarca: 88 km south on RP 13 then RP 2
Located on the eastern side of the Sierra de Ancasti on a wooded plateau, Ancasti was founded by Don Pedro Pablo Acosta in 1735. The town has manyorchards, and pejerrey fishing is popular in the nearby Dique Ibizca. Panoramic views of the Sierra de Ancasti to the west. Of tourist interest is the scenic Quebrada de Tipan. To the east the land flattens. The villagers are expert weavers.
Festivals
* Festival of the Patron Saint: December 24
Accommodation
* Hosteria de Turismo de Ancasti ALPS [telephone] (0833) 30088/31801 radio telephone $I (b)
Camping
* Camping Villa Ancasti, forested area, water, toilets
Excursions
* Lago Ibizca: 20 km south. Swimming and fishing in the dam
* Jesuit ruins of Ancastillo: 48 km east
* Anquincila: 10 km north. Archeological site
Andalgala
Population: 9500
Postal code: 4740
[telephone] Area code: (03835)
Altitude: 962 m
Distances
* From Catamarca via Chumbicha: 250 km north-west on RN 25 then RN 38
* From Catamarca via Singuil: 195 km north-west on RP 1 then RP 65
* From Belen: 85 km east on RP 46
* From Santa Maria via Capillitas: 140 km south on RP 47. Very scenic but a bad road
Located at the foot of Nevado del Candado (5450 m), Andalgala's origins go back to 1658 when General Don Francisco de Nieva y Castilla established a fort here as a base from which to fight rebellious Indians in the region. It is the second largest city in Catamarca.
The climate is pleasant throughout the year. The maximum temperature in summer is 42[degrees]C (100[degrees]F), and the average minimum temperature in winter is 4[degrees]C (40[degrees]F).
A variety of wildlife still lives in the nearby mountains: marmots in the higher reaches, mountain cats, vizcachas, condors, mountain turkeys, deer, and the occasional puma.
The area produces olive oil and walnuts, and aniseed in Chaquiago 3 km north of Andalgala. There are rich mineral seams in the Aconquija chain, and in the nearby Minas Capillitas manganese, silver, and copper are mined. The semiprecious stone rhodochrosite (known as "Rosa del Inca") is also found. Some logging and forestry are carried out.
Festivals
* Fiesta del Fuerte de Andalgala (Festival of Andalgala Fort): Early January. Artistic presentations of dance groups and precious stone display mostly rhodocrosite
Tourist information
* Municipalidad [telephone] 422115
Accommodation
There is a shortage of good accommodation in Andalgala.
* Hotel Provincial de Turismo Andalgala, Avenida Sarmiento 444 ADFGHPR [telephone] 423024. At the start of RP 62 south
* Hotel Aquasol, Rivadavia Norte ADEPRT [telephone] 422615
B Residencial Galileo, Nunez del Prado 164 near Lopez L [telephone] 422247
B Residencial Plaza, Belgrano 635 L [telephone] 422351
Accommodation in El Alamito
El Alamito is a small village located 57 km east of town on RP 62. From the intersection with RP 1 at Pampitas there is a string of villages almost merging with each other up to the border with Tucuman Province.
* Residencial Aguila Huasi
Accommodation in Villa de Aconquija Villa de Aconquija is located 55 km east of town on RP 62
* Albergue de Villa Aconquija, dormitory style accommodation BEFL
Agroturismo
* Morro del Potrero is a small farm in the Sierra de Aconquija on the Rio Potrero. It offers accommodation for 8 persons. Activities include hiking, horse-riding, trips to Laguna del Tesoro and excursion to the pre-Hispanic settlement of Pucara del Aconquija. Information: Ing. Catalina Krapp [telephone] 54-3833-430744; e-mail: tekesit@catamarca.com
Camping
* Autocamping Municipal Villa del Parque (near La Usina), is 3 km north of town on the banks of the Rio Andalgala, which flows all year round. To get to the grounds, go past the water treatment plant, and continue into the foothills of the Nevado del Candado
Eating out
* Pizzeria Cuatro Ases, Barcena near Belgrano
* Restaurant Club Social Andalgala, Belgrano Sud 650
* Restaurant La Terminal, Barcena between San Martin and Rivadavia
* Restaurant Zorba, Nunez del Prado 46
* Cafeteria El Aconquija, Perez de Zurita near Belgrano
* Cafeteria Alamo, Belgrano block 700
Post and telegraph
* Post office: Correo Argentino, Rivadavia near Mercado
* Telephone: Telecom, Perez de Zurita between Rivadavia and H. Yrigoyen
Financial
* Banco de La Nacion Argentina, San Martin near Zurita
Shopping
The best buys are cut rhodochrosites (semiprecious stones), carvings made from cardon wood and woven textiles and carpets.
* Kiosco Cachi, Barcena near San Martin
* Salon Municipal de Artesanias, Belgrano near Mercado
Shopping in Chaquiago
Chaquiago is located 4 km north on RP 47.
* Establecimiento Incaico "El Potrero Chaquiago"
Sightseeing
* Museo Arqueologico Provincial (Provincial Archaeology Museum), San Martin Sur 110 (on the south side of the town center, corner of Perez de Zurita). This museum contains many items from the pre-Colombian cultures which flourished in the area. The periods of Cienaga, Aguada, Belen and Santa Maria are well represented
Excursions
This area is very mountainous, and ideal for hiking. There are many thermal springs in the surrounding valleys; also archeological sites.
* Six kilometers north of Andalgala past the village of Chaquiago in the foothills of the Sierra de las Capillitas are the remains of an Inca establishment called Potrero Incaico Chaquiago. It is believed that the three buildings were part of a metallurgical center built in the late 15th century. This can be done as a day hike from Andalgala
* Aconquija: 60 km east on RP 48. This is a scenic route to Tucuman Province over the Cuesta del Clavillo, which at its highest point is 1922 m. From the village guides will bring you to the Pucara de Aconquija, a large pre-Hispanic fortified village built in a very strategic position. The pucara is at an altitude of 1800 m. Building material is loose rocks without mortar. Nearby funerary urns were found
* To Belen: The road from Andalgala to Belen becomes a dirt road soon after leaving town. For most of the way it skirts the edge of the mountain range to the north, and the Salar de Pipanaco. All river crossings are by ford and roads may be cut off when the rivers flood during spring. The mountains are covered in shrubs. A signpost indicates the turn-off into the Valle Amanao, in the upper part of which are hot springs. Springs such as these are common throughout these ranges, most of them being in the vicinity of the Farellon Negro copper mine. As the road follows the edge of the mountain range the slopes become bare, with only a few cacti surviving on the hills. Small armadillos can be seen hiding as the bus approaches. Near the Rio Pozo the road climbs a small pass known as Cuesta de Belen, at an elevation of 1140 m, where eagles live. Descending again into flat country the road fords many...
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