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When Michel Jean opened this homage to his native region, in 1986, it became a neighborhood institution, and, until it closed, a year ago, made its quiet corner of SoHo seem like a piece of French sovereign soil, with its Bastille Day petanque tournaments and Beaujolais bacchanals in November. Now Marc Meyer and Vicki Freeman (who also own Five Points and Cookshop) have taken on the task of remaking an old favorite for a city in which French bistros are as common as Irish pubs--and sometimes about as French. They spruced up the interior a little but left essentially untouched its two greatest assets: a long windowed frontage on the street, open in the summer, and two delightful rooms at the back, in which floral displays and large skylights give the effect of an indoor garden.
The menu, bearing an epigraph from the Provencal poet Frederic Mistral, has the sort of regional feel you might expect--the sauces abound with olive tapenades and orange zest, and specialities like pissaladiere and bouillabaisse occasionally appear--but it ventures as far east as gnocchi and as far south as couscous. At its best, the cooking, aided by a well-chosen array of predominantly southern wines, succeeds in transporting you to a sunny Arlesian ...