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COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc.
When Michel Jean opened this homage to his native region, in 1986, it became a neighborhood institution, and, until it closed, a year ago, made its quiet corner of SoHo seem like a piece of French sovereign soil, with its Bastille Day petanque tournaments and Beaujolais bacchanals in November. Now Marc Meyer and Vicki Freeman (who also own Five...
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