in with the inn crowd; William Norwich cozies up and dresses down in New York's current nightspots of choice.

This is just like my living room," documentarian Jamie Johnson is saying, maybe just a little tongue-in-cheek, before our conversation is interrupted by pounding drums. The show has begun: Handsome young Brazilians feverishly commence performing capoeira, in what looks like a mad mix of flamenco and martial arts. A crowd pushes closer to the rickety stage.

With its decor of a Babar wall collage, red velvet, and white lace curtains, what country club is this? It is the Box, of course, Simon Hammerstein's happening nightspot on Chrystie Street. (Not all the neighbors are thrilled by the gentrification on the Lower East Side.) The grandson of theater legend Oscar Hammerstein II, Simon has entertaining in his genes. I'm on the town tonight-dinner at Pastis, then the comfortable Beatrice Inn, and now here way past midnight with a coed group, including Mr. Johnson and the actor and musician Nick Hoge.

Manhattan social life reinvents itself every five years or so. The city's mood shifts, fresh styles and fashion emerge, tastes in cuisine change, new clubs open. During the Sex and the City years, pleasure domes designed by expensive architects were the "bling" destinations of choice. Dressing was competitive-even going to a restaurant was like a long walk on a short red carpet. But these days, "fabulous" is so last year.

"I get it, it's cool, but I am sad about the current casual dressing," says Melissa Bent, cofounder of Rivington Arms gallery, where work by artist Shara Hughes is on view this month. "I love getting dressed up," she says, mentioning an elaborate vintage silk wedding coat she bought recently.

At the Box this evening, few are dressed up. Correction: They do not look obviously dressed up. The edges of night fashion have softened. High style now is channeling one's inner artist, with subtle embellishments and discreet dazzle-JAR jewelry, if you can get it. "I call it 'the New Smoking,' " says Lauren Davis. "A little blazer or satin jacket by Proenza Schouler, or maybe one from Balenciaga's fall collection, a skinny jean, denim or satin, longish over the heel" of a very high shoe.

The look works for New York's trendy new watering holes, cozy destinations in landmark, or nearly landmark, renovated venues. Most of these places have "inn" in their name. The Waverly Inn, the Algonquin Round Table reincarnated with macaroni and cheese; the low-key but deeply chic Beatrice Inn-a former speakeasy-on a cobblestoned street in the West Village where the art-and-fashion crowd assembles for unfussy cocktails and socializing, plus dancing upstairs; the Inn LW12, an Anglo-Canadian-style pub where food guru Daniel Boulud consulted on the menu. More amiable places of this type are still to come-for instance, Norwood, described as an upscale, private arts-and-literature club for young people, courtesy of a former manager ...