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Anthos.(Restaurant review)

The New Yorker

| May 28, 2007 | Julian, Kate | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

By various accounts, Manhattan is enjoying a Greek-food renaissance; in this view of things, Michael Psilakis is the Greek-American Mario Batali. Psilakis, whose restaurant career began thirteen years ago at a T.G.I. Friday's, opened his first restaurant in the city not quite three years ago. His fourth and latest Manhattan venture, Anthos (Greek for "blossom"), brings what he and his partner, the Apulian-American restaurateur Donatella Arpaia, call first-generation cuisine--traditional offerings in untraditional forms--to its apotheosis.

There's lots of fish, much of it, like the meze platter of crudo, adorned with the unexpected--tuna with ruby grapefruit and coriander, yellowtail topped with artichoke and grape leaves, a scallop on the half shell with Mutsu apple and shreds of ramp. Skordalia, a potato-and-garlic puree, has been reinvented as a soup accompanied by batter-fried salt cod (traditional), lightly blanched salt cod (not traditional), and a beet-and-horseradish tartare. A generous portion of pork sits in an avgolemono sauce, alongside dolmas of pork wrapped in cabbage. The trick is to bring ...

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