AccessMyLibrary provides FREE access to over 30 million articles from top publications available through your library.
Create a link to this page
Copy and paste this link tag into your Web page or blog:
By various accounts, Manhattan is enjoying a Greek-food renaissance; in this view of things, Michael Psilakis is the Greek-American Mario Batali. Psilakis, whose restaurant career began thirteen years ago at a T.G.I. Friday's, opened his first restaurant in the city not quite three years ago. His fourth and latest Manhattan venture, Anthos (Greek for "blossom"), brings what he and his partner, the Apulian-American restaurateur Donatella Arpaia, call first-generation cuisine--traditional offerings in untraditional forms--to its apotheosis.
There's lots of fish, much of it, like the meze platter of crudo, adorned with the unexpected--tuna with ruby grapefruit and coriander, yellowtail topped with artichoke and grape leaves, a scallop on the half shell with Mutsu apple and shreds of ramp. Skordalia, a potato-and-garlic puree, has been reinvented as a soup accompanied by batter-fried salt cod (traditional), lightly blanched salt cod (not traditional), and a beet-and-horseradish tartare. A generous portion of pork sits in an avgolemono sauce, alongside dolmas of pork wrapped in cabbage. The trick is to bring ...