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fashioning the century; As the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute mounts an exhibition on Paul Poiret, today's designers reimagine the provocative world of fashion's first modernist.(Biography)

Vogue

| May 01, 2007 | Bowles, Hamish | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Hamish Bowles

In the years before World War I, Paul Poiret's star rose like a comet-as his contemporaries Picasso and Stravinsky were reimagining art and music with their iconoclastic brilliance, so he redesigned the twentieth-century woman and became the first fashion designer to create a seductive lifestyle world to reinforce his exceptional vision. But hubris and financial incompetence were to prove his downfall, and his star fizzled ignobly.

Poiret was born to a humble cloth merchant in Paris's hardscrabble quartier of Les Halles. As a boy he was apprenticed to an umbrella manufacturer in an attempt (woefully unsuccessful) to break him of ...

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