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the fat and the furious; Jeffrey Steingarten takes aim at America's war on trans fats.

Vogue

| April 01, 2007 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

Last December, when the board of health here in New York City banned trans fats from all 24,000 of our restaurants, food carts, and caterers, I became apoplectic. That's what I always become when somebody tries to tell me what I may and may not eat. This time I was not 100 percent apoplectic, because it seems pretty clear that trans fats are really bad for us. On the other hand, what about pie? I do get extremely upset when I think about pie. Isn't a ban on trans fats the functional equivalent of a ban on piecrust and thus upon pie itself? Pie is the key to a contented life. I simply cannot manage without pie. Me, I've been avoiding ...

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