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Who: Brasserie baron Keith McNally. What: Morandi-"the sort of rustic-looking place one always hopes to find in the Italian countryside." Story behind the name: "I very much like the Bolognese painter Giorgio Morandi. His name is somewhat more Italian than McNally. At least that's what I'm told." Decor: Brick walls; tiles from Naples and Sicily; beams and antique pine flooring from Vermont barns; chandeliers by Mexican reliquary sculptors. Why: "I hate pretense and ...