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fitting; That Giles Deacon is designing for Britain's quintessential luxury line, DAKS, is positively spot on.

Vogue

| March 01, 2007 | Mower, Sarah | COPYRIGHT 2007 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Sarah Mower

The most British designer alive today is surely Giles Deacon, a man who bicycles to work (just as the rising, eco-friendly leader of the Conservatives, David Cameron, pedals to Parliament) and uses " rather jolly" as a wholly nonironic term. Lately, things have indeed been rather jolly for Deacon, who recently scored the British Designer of the Year title for Giles, the label he set up in 2004. Now, as he races toward the converted Victorian school in East End London in which he designs, Deacon has an extra job to do: his first DAKS Luxury line womenswear collection, to show in Milan this month.

DAKS's now rather vague reputation for a certain dapper his-and-hers tailoring has been around since the 1930s, but Deacon isn't taking the vintage-archival route. "I didn't think it should be nostalgic-that English-tweedy thing has been replayed so often. Not that Gosford Park carry-on!" he exclaims. His studio is crammed with his works in progress: sketches and photographs plastered floor to ceiling, doll-size paper gowns ...

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