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Unbeatable; While searching for the perfect gift food, from cured meats to artisanal cheeses, Jeffrey Steingarten learns the best way to ship precious cargo-even eggs.

Vogue

| December 01, 2006 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2006 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

Wait, wait a minute/wait a minute, wait a minute/please, Mr. Po-ost-man/deliver de lettah/the sooner de bettah," I crooned softly yet insistently in the timeless song stylings of the Marvelettes. Finally, my computer responded, and several sets of clumsy, grainy photographs whooshed their way from Southern California to Manhattan. They were all I needed to complete our present mission. Several pictures showed otherwise identical cardboard boxes, except that some seemed nearly pristine; others ranged from slightly to hideously battered; and some were wet and leaking a turbid yellow fluid. Several pictures showed the boxes, open and ...

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