Insiders' Guide.(Bill Buford )(Interview)

Insiders' Guide

Tips for wearing a hat well, cooking better at home, making a luxurious bed, and more.

How to Cook Like a Chef at Home

An Interview With Bill Buford Buford writes for The New Yorker and is the author of Heat: An AmateurOs Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher

in Tuscany (Knopf). I used to be a confident improviser in the kitchen and wing it all the time. That resulted in some spectacular disasters, including more than one kitchen fire and 11 p.m. dinner. Now, I master a few techniques and practice a dish before serving it. [yen] Head to the market. Buying food in season brings you one step closer to a wonderful dish. Rather than going to a supermarket, shop where you know the people by their first names. Be sure everything is fresh and locally prepared. Then, make meals with the best of whatOs available: I have something fruity and sweet (such as roasted tomatoes), a few peppery greens (such as pickled fiddlehead ferns), and some salty items (olives or pancetta). I like to make my own quince compote, which is like applesauce but better. IOll pair these ingredients with a great cut of meatNat the moment, I love pork shoulder topped with quince compote. [yen] Mix it up a little. Mario Batali taught me to go beyond basic lettuce in a salad. The only time to eat lettuce is the middle of summer, when you can get it fresh and crisp from the green market and serve it with salt and olive oil. Other than that, the further you go from lettuce, the better. Try celery leaves and parsley mixed with seasonal vegetables, dressed with orange zest and olive oil. [yen] Trust your instincts. ItOs important to smell and listen to everything thatOs going on around you rather than simply following recipes. Eventually youOll learn to hear when something is done (perfectly

fried Brussels sprouts crackle in a hot pan) or see it (when gnocchi pops up to the surface of the water). The best way to develop your techniques is by spending a lot of time in the kitchen, where youOll learn little tricks such as not to discard the water you cooked your pasta inNadd it to tomato or pesto sauces to make them emulsify and stick better. [yen] Serve it well. Everything in a restaurant is made ahead of time. ThatOs a good lesson to take home: Cook early, assemble late. If youOre making meat for guests, you donOt want to serve it hot; it should be warm. If food gets cold, it can always be heated up in the oven. But generally, almost anything can be made hours in advance, so youOre not crazed at the last minute.

Insiders' Guide