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Byline: Hamish Bowles
Fashion is about romance," says art maven Barbara Wilhelm. "I like clothes best when they have a bit of a soul." Viennese by birth, the cool, scrubbed, honeyed-blonde beauty spent ten formative years in London and feels that "the
whole English culture has become part of me." She admires the way British designers "incorporate some sense of their own history in their designs-tartan and traditional tweeds and hunting garb," and is drawn to the work of John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, and especially the "eclectic" style of Alexander McQueen. "They are all very well cut and very feminine, but not sugary and not too pretty," she says of McQueen's clothes. "They have something that's a little bit stern about them so you can still be a bit serious." She also admires the rigorous construction of Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, and Costume National.
Wilhelm (who loves Rosalind Russell's madcap look in 1958's Auntie Mame) cites her maternal grandmother as her earliest style avatar. "She was classic and elegant. She wore those Hettabretz woven-leather-and-wool coats with her hair up in a high chignon. Right into her 70s she would wear high-heeled patent ...