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Byline: Hamish Bowles
Black is my armor," says designer Doo-Ri Chung. "Color definitely takes more premeditative thought." It's a kind of thinking, though, that Chung is often game to do, hitting the strongest hues-hot pink, vivid blues, limes. At five-foot-two, she says that she has to be "very particular about proportion. A lot of print tends to be overbearing. And if I'm wearing a bright-color shoe I have to do pants, otherwise my legs seem short."
Chung, this year's winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, designs languid, sculptural pieces, often in liquid jersey. They speak of her time working with Geoffrey Beene and her admiration for Claire McCardell. "I have my little flights of fantasy, but I don't do ridiculous," she says, admitting that she has only recently had the opportunity to dress up, for gala events at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and for the CFDA.
As a fashion student, Chung was in awe of Alaia and the ...