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COPYRIGHT 2002 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc.
Chang-rae Lee on sea urchin in Seoul
Janet Malcolm reopens "The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook"
Nora Ephron on the perfect pastrami
Madhur Jaffrey on honey and green mangoes
Calvin Trillin on telling red wine from white
Adam Gopnik on a culinary game
Elizabeth Kolbert on the risks of dining out
From 1968, M. F. K. Fisher on her first taste of caviar
Joan Acocella on how food shaped history
A tasting menu of food writing from the archive
A selection of food-related cartoons
I am a late-onset cook. In my childhood, the usual genteel protectionism surrounded activities in the voting booth, the marital bed, and the pew. But I failed to notice a fourth secret place--secret, at least, from boys--in the English middle-class home: the kitchen. Meals and my mother emerged from it, meals that...
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