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People often ask Esmond Anderson where he goes to eat. The truth is he rarely eats out. During seven and a half years as a restaurant inspector with the New York City Department of Health, Anderson scrutinized some two thousand commercial kitchens. Five years ago, he started teaching at the city's Health Academy, in the basement of a clinic on West 100th Street. His classroom is decorated with posters detailing, in Spanish and in English, the risks posed by dented cans, leaky vacuum-sealed packages, and careless thawing. One chronicles an outbreak of botulism traced to "killer potatoes." Anderson, who is fifty-three years old, is a trim man with very little hair and an ...