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cooking in the void; Chefs all over America are learning how to cook sous vide-in a vacuum, at precise temperatures, for days at a time.(Column)

Vogue

| October 01, 2006 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2006 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

It took me only 36 hours to get dinner on the table. The first thing I did was walk two blocks to the Union Square Greenmarket and find the goat lady. She makes goat cheese with milk from the females in her flock, sends the useless young males to slaughter (thus has it ever been!), and brings their meat to market. I needed the shoulder of a kid, which consists of the front leg nearly up to the neck and spine. It weighed a pound and a half.

Back home, I rubbed the shoulder with good olive oil and salt and slid it into a heavy translucent plastic bag. Then I plugged in my FoodSaver, a white plastic countertop appliance I had ...

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