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THE HARRISON 355 Greenwich St. (274-9310) -- Jimmy Bradley and Danny Abrams, an extroverted young chef-restaurateur duo, were apparently just getting started a couple of years ago when they opened the Red Cat, a favorite Chelsea bistro that everyone claims to have discovered. Now they've turned the culinary volume up a few notches and moved to Tribeca.
If you find a seat at the packed bar, the bartender will offer you a taste of Bradley's bootleg limoncello, which is tart, sweet, and so strong it makes the top of your head sting. When Bradley passes by on one of his frequent dining-room tours, he'll tell you the recipe. Abrams will probably be there, too, between motorcycle trips to the Red Cat, helmet in hand, chatting up the customers and downing a batch of the rich chocolate beignets (he claims to eat four orders a day, yet he's as thin as a piano leg).
The new place is airier and more austere than its cozy cousin, but it gets plenty of color from its crowd: a couple of auburn minks and a turquoise cloche in one corner, flashes of red lipstick at the bar, a head of green hair trying to score a table at the ...