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ANYA VON BREMZEN. HarperCollins, $25.95 (368p) ISBN 0-06-019731-5
One of the more personally idiosyncratic cookbooks to come along in some time, the latest from von Bremzen (Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook) reflects her country hopping as a Travel & Leisure editor. As she journeys, she collects esteemed recipes and here arranges favorites from Apple Pie to Wiener Schnitzel, with stops for Hamburger and Peking Duck in between. She provides historical tidbits, notes on recipe influences and cooking tips. Her tastes stretch well beyond geographical boundaries. When it comes to meatballs, she turns not to Italy but to Shanghai for Lion's Head Meatballs. For …