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Elsa Schiaparelli's signature color was a violent magenta that she admired, she said, because it was "life-giving, like all the light and the birds and the fish in the world put together, a color of China and Peru but not of the West." She called it "Shocking." In French lingerie shops, it is still referred to as le shocking, and Yves Saint Laurent describes it in his foreword to Palmer White's knowledgeable 1986 biography ("Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Paris Fashion") as a pink with "the nerve of red . . . an aggressive, brawling, warrior pink." Saint Laurent characterizes the woman herself--whom he dressed, revered, and borrowed from extensively--in even more harrowing ...