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TABLES FOR TWO.

The New Yorker

| October 30, 2006 | Paumgarten, Nick | COPYRIGHT 2006 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

CAFE D'ALSACE -- 1695 Second Ave., at 88th St. (212-722-5133)--Simon Oren, the owner of Nice Matin and Marseille, is the Dave Thomas of the New York bistro revival: not the originator (Keith McNally would be our Ray Kroc) but a distinguished and thriving practitioner all the same. The Upper East Side got a branch last spring. By night, Cafe d'Alsace is a clamorous brasserie, the unsightly acoustic tile on the ceiling doing little to muffle the treble din; by day, the atmosphere is dawdling and subdued. It's not as cozy as Cafe Luxembourg or as grandiose as Balthazar, but, in such close proximity to the likes of Elaine's and Pat O'Brien's, it fills the Francophile slot authentically enough to summon thoughts, if not visions, of the Maginot Line.

Although the place ably serves up the standards, steak frites and the rest, the innovation, for Yorkville anyway, is the array of heartier Alsatian offerings, many of which arrive in black cast-iron pots, like something a farm girl might sneak to a wounded soldier hiding out in the barn. (You also get Rambo-sized steak knives, in case the enemy stumbles in.) The ...

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