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EATING OUT : Cheap and cheerful will have them coming back for more.

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| July 01, 2003 | COPYRIGHT 2003 Financial Times Ltd. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

(From Irish Independent)

Alan Stanford reviews Odessa Lounge and Grill

Within moments of taking our seats in Odessa, Maeve leaned across thetable and said: "I really like this room." I had just been on the point of saying exactly the same thing. I think it fair to say that everybody would understand the notion of a happyplace.

We have all experienced the sensation of walking into an unfamiliar room or a house andfeeling instantly comfortable, just as we sometimes feel a strange disquiet in other places.This dining room felt like a very happy place.

Odessa is situated on Dame Court, which runs parallel to South Great Georges Street. Itis just down the hill from the Central Hotel and opposite The Stag's Head pub.

The restaurant is on the street level with the lounge in the basement; food can be taken either up or down. A large, high, white, bright room is above with pale timber flooring and green banquette seats around the walls. Marble topped tables for two are set together invarious combinations, a wide bright window fills one end and a bright service area fills theother. A happy room.

The menu is neat and succinct. It begins with an early-bird option. Cocktails in various forms are available. Maeve took a green concoction called Raglan Road which cametopped with various fruits that made it into a small snack as well as a drink. I settled for asimple - and perfect - dry martini.

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