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COPYRIGHT 2003 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc.
Most weekdays, Sol Forman ate both lunch and dinner at the legendary steakhouse Peter Luger, which was situated across the street from a metalworking factory he owned, in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn. In 1950, the restaurant's owners put the place up for auction, and Forman--afraid that his principal source of nutrition was about to disappear--submitted what turned out to be the only bid. Initially, looking after his factory prevented him from devoting as much time to the restaurant as he would have liked, so the task of procuring well-marbled protein fell to his wife, Marsha. She hired a retired government grader to tutor her, discovered that she had a talent for judging beef, and became a beloved figure in Manhattan's wholesale meat...
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