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May 1995, Candi Ceto, Central Java:
We walk up the terraces of this beautiful temple complex, high in the misty, green hills behind the great Javanese city of Solo. We are alone with our friends; the crowds of the lowlands are nowhere to be seen. Everywhere here are the signs of the love and reverence given to the gods and spirits of this most syncretic of places. There are carefully-placed offerings of fresh flowers, neatly-kept stones, statues still filled with the power of the ancient Indo-Javanese kingdoms. We reach the upper level; there are more flowers here, placed near a lingam in an alcove. We stand silently, looking all round; then our Javanese friend ...